The boards we purchased would be the starting point. Using the old rudder from Tim’s boat we traced its’ pattern from both pieces onto the wood. Then we expended the dimensions, especially the length of the blade. This was not done blindly; we had measured the transom on each boat to insure a proper fit of the top piece. The blades really didn’t matter as long as the hinge section fit into the other piece and the taper of the two pieces matched. It wasn’t rocket science. You could pretty much eye it to get it were you wanted.
The boards were not wide enough to accommodate either rudder, at least the blades. There was no issue with the top pieces; they would taper from the narrow portion that connected to the tiller to become wider where they attached to the hinge plate and the blade. The blades would require some modification in order to achieve the desired shape. This would be done by adding wood to either side of the blade, making it wider as it got deeper in the water; increasing the control surface.
Now, I had looked up the rudder design for my boat and there was even an article about constructing a one. The people who wrote it, did a fine job. However, again, this was a bargain basement type of project. I wasn’t going to spend huge amounts of money on materials to fabricate my steering components, neither was Tim. In the article the rudder was constructed of layered marine plywood all glued together and then coated. I’m sure their rudder works great but it also probably cost four times as much as mine.
Once the dimensions of the blade were to our satisfaction, we then started the arduous process of shaping it, or them. Using a plane we scraped wood off the leading and following edge effectively rounding them to eliminate drag. As before, that extra .0001 knots would make all the difference. Scraping then sanding then checking and repeating the process over and over the blades eventually took shape. This process was somewhat similar for the top pieces, but not as intense; because they wouldn’t be in the water, so didn’t require the same degree of labor.
With both pieces of the rudders shaped, Tim and I then set about the process of applying fiberglass to them. The fiberglass would serve two purposes. First, it would protect the wood from prolonged exposure to the water. Second, unlike varnish that would simply seal the wood, fiberglass would add strength and make the rudders more ridged.
Appling the fiberglass was easier with the rudder components then doing the interior repair work. Mainly because we could stand up and had the use of work benches. But no matter how you slice it, things got sticky. In my opinion, there is no way to work with fiberglass and not make a serious mess. There is no amount of preparation that will eliminate the ‘sticky factor’; as soon as you touch anything that has the resin on it, it is contaminated and will stick to whatever it comes in contact with. This makes working with fiberglass a real challenge. You get better at it as you go, but I don’t know of any Zen Master Fiberglassers.
Tim and I used one large piece of fiberglass material per rudder section. We cut them to fit, eliminating excess fabric, and carefully put them aside. We then completely coated a rudder section in fiberglass resin using a paint brush. With rubber gloves on, the precut piece was gingerly placed on and wrapped around the rudder section. At that point, we attempted to smooth out the surface and removed air pockets. This is the point of the process were everything gets sticky. Additional pieces of fiberglass material are then added to the rudder section as needed, namely at the top and bottom. At this point things are getting really sticky. I would carefully grab an additional piece of material, place it on the rudder, pull my hand back with the fabric stuck to my fingers; thus the gloves. Using a paint brush to coax the fabric from my hand to the rudder; I was then freed of its grip. Only to find that it was now stuck to the paint brush. The rudder seemed to be immune.
Once we completed a section we moved on to the next and so on until we had all the sections done. At that point we left the fumes and the stickiness behind and worked on something else. The Fumes weren’t so back outside the confines of the boat and we cracked the windows for additional ventilation.
The next day when we inspected the rudder sections, once everything had set, Tim was a bit annoyed.
“What the hell, it’s fucked,” Tim said as he looked at his rudder and then carried on for some time about the process. There were big globules and streaks of hardened fiberglass all over the rudder. Wanker.
“Its not fucked Tim, it just requires more work,” I said. “Did you think it was going to be perfect right off the bat?” I then explained what we would have to do. Over a three day period we sanded the rough spots, fixed or removed air bubbles, reapplied fiberglass, and repeated the process. Tim, who has no patients, had a hard time. Mr. Now would not be able to bend his will towards the rudders.
Finally, the rudders were ready to be painted. We applied the paint and let it dry. That is, I did. Tim decided to apply all the coats at once, only waiting long enough for the paint to become tacky before adding another layer. Again, Mr. Now had to attempt to speed up the process. He applied several coats all at once.
When the rudders were examined mine looked great and the paint had dried evenly. There was only a little touch up work required. Tim’s was another story. It looked like a Picasso. There were long streaks of semi dry paint all over it where the paint had ran. There were also bumps covering his rudder; these were also due to the hasty paint job. It looked like it was made of wax and it was melting. Nice job buddy.
Upon seeing the product of his efforts, Tim was less then enthused. He cussed up a storm. I just laughed.
“You wank fac-ed it,” I told Tim, using another of our unique verbal witticisms to describe the end result of his paint job. Instead of having a finished rudder ready for assembly, he had created more work for himself. Both pieces would need to be sanded and repainted.
Mr. Now attempted to sand his rudder right then and there. Problem, semi dry paint doesn’t sand, it smears; which lent the Picasso a little more believability. “SHIT,” Tim exclaimed. I laughed. “Fix it,” he begged. Not that I could do anything till the paint dried; and that might take a month because of how thickly it had been applied. I said I would in the next day or two if the paint would allow it. Tim had to work and didn’t have time to nurture his rudder.
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| The Flying Fish & her Rudder |
Eventually Tim’s rudder was finished. We could then assemble them using the hinge plates and assorted hardware that were purchased for the purpose. That would prove to be the easiest part of the process. It just required drilling a few holes in both sections, adding the bushings, and bolting the whole thing together. The assorted fittings were added, which consisted of a cleat and a couple eyebolts to run rope. And of course, the pentals.
Both rudders turned out great and provided the desired service. We had designed them to be disassembled by the use of the hinge bolt. With the hinge bolt removed the blade would slide out from between the hinge plates. This proved convenient when transporting the boat on its’ trailer and didn’t require the removal of the entire rudder. The blade could be taken off and stored in the boat.
I designed mine to serve a duel purpose. The top section which remained attached to the boat also served as the base for my mast support cradle, which I also built. The mast support cradle secures the mast when not rigged and is used when I trailer the boat. It is a 2 x 4 with a “C” shaped piece of wood attached to one end. There are two bolts which fit, by design, into the tiller and hinge bolt bushings; securing the mast support cradle in place. I leave it in the back of my truck when not in use.
Tim already owned a mast support cradle which was made out of metal. Because of that, he decided that he didn’t want a removable blade and permanently mounted it to the other section. Due to this decision; Tim’s rudder is a big pain in the ass to mount on, or remove from his boat. It weighs a ton and is difficult to carry because of its bulk. In the water it is buoyant, so is very unruly and tends to float away from you when you try to mount it on transom. All of which wouldn’t happen if Tim would simply take it apart as originally designed. But no, he can’t be bothered. Wanker.
During the same time we were working on the rudder assembly, Tim and I also made the tillers for each rudder. This process was pretty much the same as what was done for the rudders. We used the old tiller as a template and cut two new ones for wood we had purchased from Menards
And there you have it folks: how to refurbish an old sailboat. It was a fun project and at times exasperating, but the end result was well worth it. As I write this last little bit, I am waiting for the weather to change, so I can launch the Flying Fish for the 2011 season. If you are considering a boat project, do it; the rewards far out way the difficulties. Good luck and happy sailing.
